Csepel Estates

CSEPEL HOUSING ESTATE(s)

4 hours

55,000

1955-1988

Getting in

Public transport (30 min)

You can easily reach Csepel from the center by hopping on HÉV line 7 (H7) at Boráros tér. Due to the size of the district we suggest you get a 1-day travelcard which will allow you to get around with more flexibility. To start your tour, get off H7 at Szent Imre tér.

By bike (32 min)

However, the best way to discover Csepel is by bike. The district is connected to the center by the Eurovelo 6 cycle route and has decent cycling infrastructure of its own. Start off at Boráros tér and head south along the Danube until Rákoczi Bridge. There is a not-too well-marked route diversion here. Turn left and pass the bridge along the tram tracks on Soroksári út. Look for the huge OBI store as the path continues in the small street right before it. When you reach Csepel there is a junction, where you may either turn right for Csepel Works or continue straight to get to Csepel Center.

Csepel Works

‘Red Csepel, let your voice resound'

Go to your right at Szent Imre tér station and enter the industrial complex through the iconic main entrance featuring a beautiful ‘Csepel Művek’ sign. From here, you may just want to get lost and enjoy the sight of the out of use cockpits of cranes and the sounds of the still functioning workshops (a must-see one is at the corner of Iparvágány and Színesfém utca). The street names are indications of the type of activities which were performed in a certain area (ie.: Öntöde/Foundry street, Acélcső/Steel tubing street).

Currently, the complex is home to a great variety of businesses from a Siemens transformer factory to the studio of a renowned contemporary artist.

It also hosted the European Championship for bicycle messengers a few years ago. Not by accident, because for most Hungarians, ‘Csepel Works’ is probably associated with ‘Csepel bicikli’; the most popular bicycle brand of the socialist era. Csepel produced all sorts of bikes from road to folding ones and their vintage models can still be found everywhere in the country.

From here, you may just want to get lost and enjoy the sight of the out of use cockpits of cranes and the sounds of the still functioning workshops

Csepel Works entrance

Csepel Works

Acélcső utca

Iparvágány utca

Gábor M. Szőke Studio ( Bronzöntő utca)

Now you have a sense of the driving force behind Csepel’s transformation, it’s time to explore the housing estates. If your body needs some fuel before the walk, take a break at Arany Palacsintázó and Söröző next to the entrance. This instituion next to Csepel Works' entrance earned a place in our guide because of its uniqueness. This 2 in 1 place is an unlikely marriage of a pub and a crêperie.

The two separate spaces are connected with a simple door inside so you can have a Lynchian experience if you shift from one world - an utterly Hungarian pub- to another - minimalist, modern interior. The latter has a staggering 127 types of Hungarian style pancakes on offer from a classic cottage cheese to more outside the box combinations ( coconut avec meat&veggie). Menu only in Hungarian.

Csepel-Center

Head towards Kossuth Lajos út, the main road that cuts through Csepel-Center Estate. The first phase of prefab house constructions took place on the northern end of the road in the 60s. In 1965, a local paper wrote in a very enthusiastic way that the new “skyscrapers” take Csepel to a new level and visitors from Pest will marvel at the newborn modern city. Residents on the other hand had to cope with the reality of everyday life - unceasing noise and shaking walls, and smoke, gas and dust from the factories that surrounded the area.

Walk south along Kossuth Lajos towards Csepel’s most iconic building, the ‘Umbrella’. This red-white striped beautiful concrete water tower (Csepeli Víztorony) was built between 1980-84 and is the tallest of its kind in the country at 70m. From here, football fans may take a small detour to check out one of the capital's last remaining retro stadiums at Béke tér. The local team Csepel SC brought home the Hungarian first league trophy in 1959 and remained a mid-tier force until the 90s. If you have a soft spot for outskirts markets do not miss the nearby Csepel Piac.

This red-white striped beautiful concrete water tower (Csepeli Víztorony) was built between 1980-84 and is the tallest of its kind in the country at 70m

Suburban railway (HÉV) stop 'Karácsony Sándor utca'

Csepeli Víztorony (Csepel Watertower)

Csepel-Center Estate

Csepel-Center Estate, Kossuth Lajos út

If you are seeking a spot for unwind and pour down a beer or two in a nice environment Rizmajer 'Beerhouse' is the place to be. Known as a cult-place among Csepelians, Rizmajer offers a perfect setting for beer lovers. You can sample sixteen different beers on tap, all from the local Rizmajer Brewery.

Rizmajer was a pioneer of the Hungarian craft beer movement in the 90s. The company has expanded and now it boasts a downdown bar at Blaha Lujza tér as well. The 'urquell' is, however, in Csepel. The restaurant has a large indoor section and an atmospheric garden. Rizmajer attracts a mixed crowd from regular pub-goers to loud students and cyclists taking a break en route to southern parts Csepel Island.

Rizmajer Brewery

The (r)Estates

Csillagtelep Estate

Csepel-Center Estate is an ordinary prefab housing estate with the same shortcomings most estates of the same era suffer from. Not too far away, however, there is an earlier (pre-prefab) attempt of mass housing which has proved to be a more liveable and popular one. Csepel-Csillagtelep Estate (construction between 1955-65, 2186 apartments) was built on the then southern edge of the district. The architect, Lajos Zalaváry received the Miklós Ybl prize, the highest architectural award of Hungary for his plans.

Zalaváry designed several building prototypes (mostly 3-4 storey) which were used in a way that it feels like the estate is an ensemble of different looking ‘mini-estates'. Merkúr, Tejút and Vénusz streets are the most charming ones. You can get to Csillagtelep in 10-12 min by bus from Csepel Center (take 38,138,238 at ‘Csepel H’ then get off at Vas Gereben utca. Bus 36 takes you there directly).

Vénusz utca 21. (Csillagtelep Estate)

Merkúr utca

Királymajor Estate

Speaking of popular estates in Csepel, Királymajor Estate (built between 1977-80, 1216 apartments) is regarded as consensus numero uno. Residents benefit from the advantages of late-generation prefab house types (ie.: larger apartments with more practical layouts) but it's the location that makes Királymajor unique in the first place. Not far from the blocks, you can find yourself on the banks of Ráckeve-Soroksár Danube branch listening to reeds swaying in the wind and watching kayaks paddling down the calm river.

When you are done with the blocks head towards Kolonics György sétány (‘promenade’) that stretches along the riverbank. On the way, climb up the tiny Daru-domb (hillock) and enjoy the panorama accompanied by wooden statues of Hungary’s founding fathers, Álmos, Árpád and István. If time is on your side, and you are up for a nature walk, head south along the promenade to reach the Kis-Duna (Little Danube) educational trail. To get to Királymajor Estate from Csepel Center take bus 151 Széchenyi István utca and get off at Kikötő utca stop.

We certainly won't let you go without a tip to dine at Királymajor Estate. Perhaps you won't believe it until you have tried it yourself, but one of Budapest's finest pizza napoletana spots sits in a sleepy little suburban street in next to the Estate. Periferico was opened a few years ago as a passion project by two friends who love Mediterranean cuisine and missed good pizza from Csepel. The place quickly won the hearts of locals. Besides pizzas, Periferico offers classic Greek dishes, too. Don't expect a fancy environment here - Periferico moved into a tin sheet covered small kiosk which used to be a lottery store. Outdoor seating only.

Daru hillock (Királymajor Estate)

Királymajor Estate

Ráckeve-Soroksár Danube branch, Kolonics promenade

Periferico Pizzeria